By Marisa Robinson
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The Congregation Beth Emeth trip to Morocco was a symphony of colors, flavors, and cultures.
Arriving in Casablanca, we started at the only Jewish museum in Morocco, the home of many photographs and beautiful items both ritual and personal from a time when there was a larger Jewish population there. After the museum, we visited the Hassan II Mosque, one of the largest in the world and largely built out over water—the marble, mosaics, and wooden and stucco carvings were amazing!
We began our second day walking through the meat, vegetable, and fish markets of the Tangier Medina. Walking through the old Jewish quarter, we visited the last operating synagogue in Tangiers, the beautiful Moshe Nahon, where Rabbi Robinson had the privilege of handling a 500-year-old Torah scroll.
We visited the oldest Jewish cemetery in Tangiers, where we paid our respects to generations of Moroccan Jews by reciting the Mourner’s Kaddish. We also visited the American Legation, the first American property outside of the United States, and learned about how Morocco was the first country to recognize the brand new United States by opening diplomatic relations in 1787.
The third day, we headed for the Rif Mountains of northern Morocco, on the way to the “Blue City,” Chefchaouen—famous for its blue buildings which must be repainted twice per year to keep their unique indigo color. This custom may derive from Jews and others who fled Spain during the Inquisition. After visiting the new section of the city, our group entered the Medina (old city), eventually reaching the entrance to the Kasbah (fort), built in the late 15th century to defend against attacks by Portuguese invaders. We then continued on to Fes (or Fez).
The next day began at the Jewish cemetery in the Mellah (Jewish district) of Fes-al Jadid, or New Fes, dating to the 13th century, where we saw the graves of Maimonides’ family members. We then visited a beautiful synagogue with a mikvah before heading into the Medina, the original walled city of Fes. We learned about traditional carpet making, saw the oldest university in the world—the University of al-Qarawiyyin—and one of its madrassas.
That afternoon, we had the opportunity to meet with Professor Fatima from the the University of al-Qarawiyyin to hear about women’s issues in Morocco and her years of advocacy. We then attended the Simon Levy synagogue for Friday night Shabbat services. While at the Simon Levy synagogue, we met an Israeli woman whose family had emigrated to Israel from Morocco and who returned as a law professor at the university.
On Shabbat, we traveled to Volubilis. At this UNESCO World Heritage Site, we explored the ruins of a Roman city that was built over a thousand years ago, with astonishing mosaics and an incredible view.
Our last day in Fes, we visited the Medina, full of winding roads and narrow pathways, one of which led us to the former home of Maimonides in Morocco, where Rabbi Robinson led us in a brief study, then off by air to Marrakesh.
In Marrakesh we visited one of the city’s synagogues, Slat Al Azama. As we arrived, an American man was finishing his morning prayers. We learned he provides kosher certification to restaurants and businesses. The next day we explored the enchanting Jardin Majorelle and the Yves Saint Laurent Museum.
On our final day in Morocco, we hiked the Atlas Mountains with a local guide, then an Amazigh (“Berber”) family taught us a bit about how they live and showed us how Moroccans prepare mint tea, their national drink. From there we returned to Marrakesh before heading home with our new knowledge.
