By Sylvia and Mark Wagman
All photos provided by Sylvia and Mark Wagman
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We visited Israel for two and a half weeks in June and July, our first time since 2022. Hence, yes, our first visit since October 7. We were fortunate that it was a quiet time.
Though we did do some touring on our own, there were three main purposes for this trip:
- To visit with our relatives in Ramat Aviv, Kfar Saba, Raanana, Netanya, and Haifa
- To visit Mitzpe Ramon, Delaware’s Sister City, and
- To participate in a weeklong Times of Israel tour
We can’t cover it all in one article, but what follows are some reflections on the small wonders we encountered, our time in Mitzpe Ramon, and, in keeping with the theme of this issue, some remarkable women we met along the way.
Small Wonders
We were privileged to witness several examples of what we consider to be “small wonders.” There was, of course, our partner/sister city of Mitzpe Ramon, 6,000 residents strong and growing, with high hopes for the future. Much more about it in the next section of the article.
And then there was Israel. We all realize that Israel is an extraordinary country that “punches well above its weight” in many respects. Since October 7, it has been tested to an extent rarely experienced in its history. The operative word is “resilience.” In fact, the Times of Israel tour theme was “Israeli Resilience Post October 7th.” We witnessed resilience of individuals, families, and institutions. Some specific examples will be described in the last section of this article.
The mood of Israelis was very different than in our past visits. It was a complex mix of resilience, determination, exhaustion, and uncertainty. Yet, in the face of incredible challenges, Israelis continue to be rated very high in the Happiness Index—seventh among world nations last year! Most Israelis unquestionably find purpose in their lives, a characteristic that correlates with happiness.
We certainly do not mean to sugar coat the challenges facing Israelis and Israel. Many individuals, families, and businesses are under tremendous stress in the current situation, with no end in sight. And there are also longer-term societal issues that are crying out to be addressed, including the fragmented education system, the unsustainable relationship with the Haredi community, an increasing brain drain, the lack of a constitution, and politics getting in the way of identifying and implementing practical solutions to all of these challenges.
Without wading too much into politics, all those who expressed a view to us see the upcoming elections in Israel as critical and are hoping it brings change. However, if you believe the polls, the electorate is still quite split, and the election outcome remains uncertain.
The Times of Israel tour was a small wonder in itself. Though its capacity was up to 35 participants, there were only 17 of us, which permitted a lot of individual attention. Many of the top Times of Israel journalists shared their expertise, and we visited several places on the Lebanese and Syrian borders and the Gaza envelope, meeting with inspiring local residents. And the food was incredible! It was truly a unique tour for those who think they have seen everything in Israel. It is given every few months—we highly recommend it (https://www.timesofisrael.com/join-toi-in-israel/).
We all know that Delaware is a “Small Wonder.” Now all those associated with the Times of Israel tour know it as well. Believe it or not, four out of the 17 tour participants were from Delaware! We did not know there would be other Delawareans there, though Mark knows one of them from playing pickleball at the JCC. Moreover, the Chief Operating Officer of the Times of Israel, Mick Weinstein, grew up in Delaware. We know his parents. Of course, we had to take a photo of the five of us!
Mitzpe Ramon
Delaware’s new sister city was a must-see for us on this trip. We had visited once before, in 2003, but everything except its signature crater has changed. It is located, of course, deep in the Negev. But, after escaping the heavy traffic of Tel Aviv, it was clear sailing south—most of the time on Route 40—which also continues further toward Eilat.
Mitzpe Ramon boasts a diverse range of about 700 hotel rooms. We stayed for two nights at a small inn in the Spice Quarter. Though it only has 10 rooms, we were surprised to learn that we were the first foreign tourists to stay there in over six months! The hotel has been surviving with only Israeli guests during this difficult period.
We enjoyed roaming around the Spice Quarter, a former industrial area that is now occupied by galleries, shops, restaurants, a bar, and a bakery. Mitzpe Ramon has become a magnet for artists and craftspeople. One artist who makes stone jewelry told us she loves it there.
Of course, we spent time at the rim of the crater, Makhtesh Ramon. It is a unique natural formation—beautiful and massive. We walked along the promenade, which provides incredible vistas. We drove on Route 40 several kilometers into the crater. And, even as we enjoyed a delicious dinner at Beit Ramona restaurant, we took in a view of the crater at sunset from our table.
The Visitors Center was completely different from the one that was there in 2003. There was an extensive exhibit explaining the geological processes that formed the crater. There is also an impressive and poignant exhibition about Ilan Ramon, the Israeli astronaut who perished with the Space Shuttle Columbia in 2003. Other than his last name, there is no prior relationship between the astronaut and the city.
What made our visit special was a personal tour by Yedidya Yosef, Deputy Mayor of Mitzpe Ramon. We met Yedidya when he visited Wilmington in May and told him about our planned visit. By the time we arrived, he had already helped us by answering our many questions.
Describing life in Mitzpe Ramon, Yedidya told us, “we are basically pioneers.” They are an “island” in the Negev, a region whose development will—according to Ben Gurion—determine the fate of Israel. Their goal is to change the narrative that life is not easy in the desert, aided by government incentives to move away from the population centers of Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, as well as by partnerships such as the one with the Jewish Federation of Delaware.
The city has a diverse population. We visited one of the four different high schools. A religious high school near the rim is being relocated closer to other schools, partly an effort to share some facilities among the schools. It will also free up space overlooking the crater for what Yedidya calls the “beach,” a recreational area for the enjoyment of residents and tourists.
Mitzpe Ramon is a center for the circus arts, with one of two circus schools for adults in Israel. Yedidya took us there, and we met the head of the school, Mor Ron. Besides two years of curriculum, they hold conventions for circus artists. If we were visiting just two weeks later, we would have witnessed 150 jugglers. Yedidya told us about other arts schools in town as well—for music, dance, theatre, and contemporary arts.
We had a fascinating meeting with Ariel Meroz, one of about 20 Ph.D. research scientists at the Dead Sea and Arava Science Center (www.adssc.org). Mitzpe Ramon is home to one of the four branches of the center. Ariel specializes in the ecology of the Negev and the nature of human/natural interactions.
We were “guests of honor,” with reserved front row seats, at a music recital for pre-school and elementary school students. What a pleasure it was to see them proudly perform for teachers and parents. This program is supported by our partnership.
Some Remarkable Women
The adversity in Israel’s North has tested and revealed some remarkable women whom we met during the Times of Israel tour.
We’re sure you will recall the devastating missile attack on a soccer field in Majdal Shams, a Druze village in the Golan Heights. Twelve children between ages 10 and 16 were killed in that attack on July 27, 2024. We met with Naela Fakher Eldin, a teacher and the mother of one of the victims, her 11 ½ year old daughter, Alma. Standing in front of a memorial with a picture of each child, Naela spoke firsthand about each of them. She came to Alma last, her “princess.” Everyone loved her. She was talented, especially in basketball. She spoke four languages and wanted to become a lawyer. Naela described her as her soulmate: “She is with me spiritually all the time.” She says she still has two children; she has to stand tall for them. She is seeking to transfer her pain into a bridge—speaking in New York, Jerusalem, and Norway, instituting an award for outstanding law students and a basketball tournament in Alma’s name. Nearly everyone hugged Naela following her heartfelt remarks.
Ora Hatan has been called the Iron Lady of Moshav Shtula, on the Lebanese border. Though her family’s restaurant was damaged during the war, she has continued to prepare meals for hundreds of soldiers each day. Ora was given the honor of lighting a torch at Israel’s Independence Day ceremony on Mount Herzl this year. She prepared a bountiful lunch for our group, while telling us her amazing story. With steadfast courage, she declares “We must never lose the North.”
Jessica Steinberg, arts and culture editor of the Times of Israel, took us to meet an artist displaced from the North because of the war. Two and a half years ago, Doron Adorian and her parents evacuated their home in Kibbutz Sde Nechamia in the upper Galilee. We visited her in what has become her new studio home—the “Refrigerator” in Tel Aviv, an artists’ collective named for its previous use for fruit storage. Doron appreciates being welcomed as a “northern refugee.” As a longtime resident of the North, being subject to missile attacks is nothing new to her; now all Israelis realize what that means. Her former (and future?) home is always on her mind. She paints what she remembers, the nature that surrounded her in the North. Thistles have become a signature subject for her, the hardy, prickly plants that are in some ways evocative of the Israeli spirit.
Jewish women have long been resilient and remarkable. Two of Sylvia’s aunts went to Palestine after surviving the Holocaust. There, they raised their families, and their children, grandchildren, and great grandchildren have all served in the IDF. One of those great grandchildren is a First Lieutenant in the IDF now. She meets with incoming soldiers who lost a family member on October 7th, in the ensuing war, or in recent terrorist attacks. She eases the path of their integration into the military. Such a difficult job at such a young age.
So many Israelis thanked us for being there. Though it felt undeserved in comparison to the challenges they face every day, the acknowledgment, nevertheless, left us with a profound sense of fulfillment. It added purpose to a trip that afforded firsthand witness to today’s Israel. There is nothing more important than showing up!
About the Authors:
SYLVIA AND MARK WAGMAN are active members at Adas Kodesch Shel Emeth, participating in the Israeli Dance group, Chug Ivri, and more. Mark is a member of the Jewish Federation of Delaware Board of Directors and the Jewish LIVING Delaware Advisory Committee. Sylvia is a former Hebrew teacher at Albert Einstein Academy.
